Day 13, 7/17: BC (14500 ft) - C1 (18200 ft)

Today we start the final ascent. In the morning, everyone was busy getting prepared. For sun protection, many people resorted to “muscle tapes.” They’re like band-aids that you stick onto vulnerable areas on your face, like nose, cheeks, and chin. However, improper placement of tapes can also make your face end up like a messed-up jigsaw puzzle.

Teammate putting on tape. These can also protect your joints (like knees).

For lunch, we cooked some chicken that we brought from Tashkurgan. It might sound weird, but chicken broth is among my favorite Chinese meals, especially when you soak rice into it. And of course, there are melons.

Pumped.

During 2AC, our pace was too fast. This time, the leader made sure that we spend at least 7 hour hiking, because we had nothing to do up at camp, and we need to wait until 11 to sleep. Staying active for longer can decrease our chances of getting a cold along the way.

In addition, since I've already carried up most of the heavy gears during the past two acclimatization climbs, my pack can finally be lighter (I don't feel the difference though).

The way up C1 was a little different this time. The snow had retreated since the last time we’ve been here due to warmer weather and reduced precipitation. After changing into climbing boots at ABC, we still needed to walk on rocks for an hour until we can put on our snowshoes.

It's getting rocky.

The location of C1 still stayed the same, although this time we had to dig a new bathroom out because the last one collapsed.

Probably my favorite photo of the entire trip.

Sunset was stunning as usual.

I felt much better than I did the last two times I was here. Excited to go through the beautiful icefall tomorrow.