Prologue

I left basecamp on 7/21, so it has been a couple of days since I was up close with the mountain. I want to record down all the events that took place over the past 20 days before the precious memories fade away, in the form of diary.

First, I want to do provide a brief introduction about the mountain, Muztagh Ata. Situated in Xinjiang Province, Muztagh Ata lies on the western border of China, "Muztagh Ata" translates into “the father of ice mountains.” (“Muz” means ice, “tagh” means mountain, and “Ata” means father).

Caught a little helicopter flying over Muztagh Ata.

With its summit at 24,757 feet (7546m), it is the second highest mountain in the Pamir range and the 43rd highest mountain on the world. 180 miles north of Muztagh Ata lies K2, the second highest mountain in the world. It is considered one of the easiest 7000-meter peaks to climb due to its accessibility and “gentle” slopes. Although it is the least technical mountains I’ve attempted thus far, Muztagh is still the most dangerous one due to its extreme altitude, temperature, and windspeed.

Red pin is the location of Muztagh Ata.

After a failed summit attempt on a 5000-meter peak (Nama) this winter, I started to question my climbing abilities as well as my overall fitness. I signed up for Muztagh to set myself a clear goal and to force myself to start a regular workout regimen. I kept reminding myself: if I don’t put in the work, I will suffer.

Exhausted on Nama at about 18000 feet.

But overall, climbing is more of an outlet and a meditative device for me. I never see it as a sport or have a set mentality to “conquer” any mountain. I enjoy the dreamy sensation at high altitudes, where I can leave all the stress and frustrations behind.

Descending on Mt. Chola at 20000 feet. I'm the one with a green windbreaker and a little red park leaking out.